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When you press the pedal on a gas golf cart, you expect a few things to happen. Namely, the engine should roar to life, and the buggy should start moving. What if you do that and it doesn't happen? Well, check and make sure you didn't have a mental relapse and forget to turn the key to the on position. After that, know that the most common cause of a no-run situation on a golf cart is the solenoid. Your Club Car is no good to you on the sidelines. Pick up a Club Car DS Precedent 12-Volt Solenoid and get back in the game.
Prestolite has taken the guesswork out of solenoids for golf carts. These aftermarket replacements look identical to the OEM part they replace. This makes your solenoid very easy to identify visually. Additionally, installation is a breeze! This Club Car DS Precedent 12-volt solenoid is going to install the exact same way your stock one came off.
First, jack up the rear end of the golf cart and put it on jack stands just in case one of these tests causes the car to run. Have a volt meter ready, set to DC voltage. Place the test leads of the volt meter on the two small terminals of the solenoid. With the key switch on, the car in gear (leave the cart this way for the rest of the testing) and the accelerator depressed you should read 12-13 volts. If you don't, the problem lies before the solenoid, like a micro switch or something along those lines. If you do get voltage there, place the negative probe of the voltmeter on the battery negative and place the positive probe from the volt meter on the large terminal of the solenoid that has the cable connecting to the battery. This should read 12-13 volts. Hit the pedal and make sure it does not drop, just to verify that the battery and the cable to the battery is good. Assuming that voltage does not drop, move the positive probe of the voltmeter over to the other large terminal of the solenoid, leave the negative probe from the volt meter on the battery negative. When you hit the pedal, it should read 12-13 volts. If it doesn't and all the other tests were good, bad solenoid.
This solenoid is the correct for you CarryAll
It has a starter /generator. It serves the same purpose as an alternator and a starter.
I had the same problem and thought it was the solenoid. I replaced the solenoid only to find that I still had the problem. When I checked the battery the fluid level was way down. Filled the battery and discovered it was leaking. Bought a new battery and everything was fine. Kept the old solenoid just in case it will be needed in the future because there was nothing wrong with it. Dumb me. I should have checked the battery first. Hope this helps. John
That is the solenoid I have used on the Club Cars I have used. You have to make sure you are using the correct Micro Switches. Some of them use a closed circuit and some use open circuits for them to run. Plus make sure all your grounds are making good contacts
You said batteries so I am going to assume you have a 48v system. If the car slows to a crawl and wont go more than 3-5 mph, that is caused by a speed sensor fault. Part # 8415. Its installed on the end cap of the motor and is very easy to change.
1st thing I would check is that the battery is good, next I would check to hear the click that the Solenoid is working. After that I would check the brushes in the starter generator. Chances are they are shot and need to be replaced. Good luck
Micro switch has got to be stuck in the on position for it to crank when you turn the key on
As mounted in cart and looking down from right side of cart:
Large red cable to large rt. Terminal
Large white cable to large left terminal
Small blue cable to small upper terminal
Small orange cable to bottom small terminal
Hi David, please give our tech support team a call at 1-888-444-9994. They can assist you with this.