1986-93 EZGO Marathon - Forward and Reverse Switch
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Anything on your golf cart that works harder than your solenoid would have to be the EZGO Forward and Reverse Switch for series Marathon carts. This copper contacted switch routes all of the power from the batteries back to the motor. Depending on how it is wired, it may be routing the negative side. If that is the case, the amperage is much higher. That means heat is going to build rapidly. That will heat the contacts to the point of being soft and melting on a factory switch. When this happens, the needed juice cannot make it to the motor, and you are dead in the water. This is the main reason for this heavy-duty unit.
This golf cart beefed-up switch is very easy to install; all you need to do is remove the old one and install the new one the exact same way. Even though this is a heavy-duty aftermarket part, it looks just like the OEM EZGO switch. Call Buggies and place your order today.
Mine worked with the old bracket. I didn’t use the reverse buzzer and my old one had a double micro switch on one side. I had to reuse the double switch, because I couldn’t get reverse to work otherwise.
I bought one of the switches and you must be carefull. The problem is as follows:
The problem I had is that I was not getting the full voltage through the F/R switch.
Since I had two F/R switches sent to me by mistake, I had already swapped the switches out before and obtained the same results.
After tightening the 9/16 bolt the power went through the switch but as I was driving the cart, it would stop and go. I would have to play with the switch by wiggling it back and forth.
I realized then that something else was wrong and dismantled the F/R switch.
I found as you can see in the slides below, that the cooper electrodes were sitting below the surface of the composite base by .005 to .010 thousands of an inch. The electrodes are also not round but oblong.
The electrodes on the rotating switch of the assembly are also not lined up when you rotate the switch (See drawings in slides) creating part of the electrode to sit on the composite material.
This situation creates a .005 to .010 gap between the electrodes.
This situation is what was causing getting no power to through the balance of the system.
Therefore, by tightening the 9/16 bolt at the front of the switch, is not the correct solution because all you doing is flexing the entire switch creating premature wear and power fluctuation.
Root cause are the electrodes.
1. electrodes in the main base (Switch) are sitting below the surface.
2. When rotating the switch, because the electrodes are oblong and not oriented properly after the switch is in the F/R position, they sit on the composite material and have a gap.
Hi Mr. Rae yes the 1st thing you wanna check is your key switch make sure you got power up to your key switch down to your relaced which them from their to your forward reverse
Joe its never a bad idea to go beefed up it will just allow the switch to take alot more abuse and still keep working on a day to day basis
