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Aftermarket controllers are the brain of any electric golf cart after about the year 2000. Before that, it was varying gauges of coiled wire that, thru resistance, metered the rate of acceleration. They were very heat-sensitive systems and prone to failure. With the way golf carts get punished these days, the industry had to act. They needed to increase the reliability of power delivery to the motor. The answer to all these issues became controllers. This E-Z-GO 350-Amp PDS Curtis Controller is an excellent example of the leaps and bounds the industry has taken in this field.
The motor on your golf cart is a giant magnet. It needs both a positive and negative charge to spin, which is what turns the wheels. The positive supply is constant, while this OEM replacement controller sends a building or variable negative as you depress the accelerator. Without a working controller, you cannot get a negative signal to your motor, and therefore your golf cart won't run. Controllers are arguably the most critical piece of equipment on your EZGO. Make sure you buy a quality unit from Buggies Unlimited and protect your investment.
Step 2.) Solenoid check: there are 4 terminals total on the solenoid. 2 large and 2 small. The 2 small are your input voltage and the 2 large are output. With your voltmeter check the two small terminals (positive to positive small terminal and negative to negative small terminal) with the key switch on and the accelerator depressed you should show a full system voltage. If you do not get this voltage then something in series before the solenoid is defective. If you get proper voltage at this test then put the positive on your volt meter to either one of the large terminals and the negative to the negative on your battery pack. Depress the accelerator pedal and you should get a full system voltage. If you do not then you have a bad solenoid. If you do move to step 3
Moving to a higher amperage controller will fix that issue. It will give you a small speed boost, but where you are going to see the drastic increase is in the low end torque.
I doubt it probably your switch I would check that first
Hi Todd, this would be a direct replacement for the PDS carts.
I do not think the controller is your problem, if the water did not get up high enough to get in to the controller. It was high enough to get in the motor my suggestion is have your local repair shop do the diagnosis
Assuming the cart ran before the battery swap, make sure you have correctly attached the black & white wires from the back of the charging port to your main battery pack. The white wire is positive and the black wire is negative. Make sure the red wire coming out of the charge port is plugged together. There is a spade connector right at the back side of the port. The cart won't run without the charge wires attached.
thi is somthing wed like to trouble shoot with you give us a call
If your cart was upgraded from 36 to 48v and still runs this style controller than yes, it will work great. You may even get above 20. But if it was 48v from the factory and runs he 1268 controller than you cannot convert it.
Yes