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Click, Click... Not a good thing to hear when you jump on your electric Club Car. You press the pedal, and that's all you get. It could honestly be a few different things. Most commonly, this would mean that your Club Car Electric 36-volt Solenoid has gone faulty. Again, several issues could cause a "no-go" situation like this. Still, a new aftermarket relay from Prestolite is a great place to start. Not to mention, this OEM-style replacement will look identical to the one that came factory on your 76-98 golf cart.
This Club Car Electric 36-volt Solenoid will not only work on multi-relay carts, where you'll have about 6 of these bad boys in a line but is rated for use on 36-volt solid-state systems as well. We don't care if it is just old or if you have achieved antique status, let's get that vintage golf cart running again. Buggies Unlimited has the aftermarket parts to get it rolling without breaking the bank.
These early model 36 volt carts have a very simple control scheme there are 5 relays arranged side by side from the driver side to the passenger side the first relay on the driver side applies power to the remaining 4 relays. The first relay is controled by turning on the key which applies power to the first of 5 switches that are connected to your go pedal as you push the pedal down you make up the first switch to operate your first relay as you continue to push the pedal the switches start making up one after another operating the next relay as you pick up speed My guess is that the first relay internal contacts are welded together thereby letting the cart move. Thes relays are notorious as they age the heat they genarate tends to swell the internal components making them stick or freeze always keep one on hand
Sounds like what is known as an mcore problem a unit that's under the accelerator be Enter
Under the seat and behind the battery galley. Take out the entire assembly where the solenoids are mounted. This will make replacement much easier.
They're all 36v continuous dudie solenoid. They are all the same.
USING A MULTI METER THAT HAS THE CAPABILITY OF MEASURING MILLI AMPS YOU NEED TO DISCONNECT THE FIRST BATTERY IN THE SERIES AND HOOK THE MULTI METER IN SERIES WITH THE BATTERIES. THERE SHOULD BE VERY LITTLE AMPERAGE FLOW. IT YOU HAVE MORE THAN 50 MILLI AMPS THEN YOU NEED TO START DISCONNECTING ALL OF THE ACCESSORIES UNTIL THE DRAW GOES AWAY. WHAT I HAVE SEEM TO BE A MORE LIKELY CAUSE OF THIS PROBLEM IS HAVING ONE OF THE BATTERIES WITH A WEAK CELL. USING A HYDROMETER CHECK THE SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF EACH CELL. THEY SHOULD ALL BE THE SAME. IF ONE IS LOW IT WILL DRAW THE OTHER BATTERIES DOWN.
If you have six 6volt batteries, that is a 36 volt system. You should not have a 48v solenoid. Sounds like someone stuck in the wrong part. I have a cub car 36v system. I would push on the peddle and sometimes it would go and sometimes do nothing.. It was a bad solenoid. I cut the old solenoid open and the contacts where burnt. Sounds like you need a 36v solenoid.
Very simple devices - no magic. As long as the voltage rating is met (meaning you're NOT a 48V cart), you're good to go. Connect as your old one was connected (should be similar).
Thomas is correct, It doesn't matter what it looks like,if it will fit. It must be 48V continuous duty.
The two small studs are the control side of this solenoid. The two large studs are the connection from the battery to the motor. When you press the pedal there are switches in the pedal area that will close and supply voltage to one of the small studs. The other small stud side is connected to the battery. What this does is, it pulls the solenoid in and a set of contacts connect the two large studs together. This connects the battery to your motor.
Hope this helps!
Regards,
Joe
I would need to know the maker for the 4301e to cross reference it.